2022 'Spire's Lament' Viognier

A distinct viognier of intensity and drive, with talc-like fringes and a deep, brooding core of just-ripe stone fruit, nashi pear, preserved lemon, cinnamon and dried apple. This feels serious, detailed in its layers of fruit and spice with that textural pucker that speaks of a higher plane of the variety. Serious stuff.

Does the grape proud with a sensitive rendition that skilfully wrangles the balance of ripe tropical and citrus fruits and texture against a solid background of acidity. It’s always a tough balancing act with Viognier, performed here with great success. Nectarine, peach, mango skin, tangerine and citrus with lifted orange blossom aromatics and a whisper of marzipan savouriness, and you have a wine that fills the mouth with great flavour concentration with a touch of phenolic grip. Drink now–2030

Sevenhill Clare Valley 'Spire's Lament' Viognier 2022, $50. When viognier first became popular and more widespread, there were some pretty wild versions. This is much tamer by comparison but no less intriguing and interesting. Dare to be different not diffident, and you'll be rewarded. 9.4/10.